Style Guide: Kateryna Gorbenko's Ongoing Style Evolution

Kateryna Gorbenko is a Ukrainian fashion illustrator and brand designer, based in Amsterdam. She’s recognised for her expressive line drawing technique, combining abstract lines with detailed objects or shapes.

Her client list includes Nike, Vogue Czechoslovakia, L’Officiel Ukraine, L’Officiel Hommes, Milk X Magazine, Havana Club, and more. 

Kate is a winner of FIDA Worldwide Awards 2023 in the category ‘Culture vulture’ and the finalist of Harper's Bazaar Ukraine Fashion Forward contest in 2017. In 2024, FIDA Worldwide included her in their top 100 fashion illustrators in the industry. 

Starting with classic methods like paper, pencils, and watercolour painting, Kate has dedicated the past four years to mastering digital illustrations. Currently, many of her digital works are indistinguishable from traditional paper illustrations. Kate is constantly seeking new mediums and techniques, continuing to experiment with digital formats and animations. 

Apart from her illustrations, she's also known as a bedroom DJ, a museum and gallery nerd, and a homemade tiramisu expert!

LBB> How would you describe the work that you do?

Kateryna> As a fashion illustrator, I bring key moments in the fashion industry to life through both static and animated visuals, showcasing fashion narratives and products that reflect modern trends with a mix of hand-drawn and digital techniques. In my role as a full time brand designer, I craft a brand's visual identity and personality, creating cohesive design elements that convey its values, mission and story. 

These two roles go hand in hand, broadening my creative outlook and enhancing my design approach.

LBB> And do you have a particular style or styles that you like to work in? If so how would you describe that?

Kateryna> For many years, I worked primarily with traditional mediums, using the classic combination of paper and soft pencils. Additionally, I experimented with watercolour and markers. In recent years, I would describe my technique as a combination of digital and analogue. 

At times, it is difficult to distinguish the medium used in my artwork, as many of my digital sketches closely resemble those created on paper. However, for me, nothing compares to the tactile experience of working with traditional tools.

I typically work quickly and expressively, incorporating chaotic lines, intricate details, humour and unexpected textures into my illustrations. I enjoy the dynamic interplay between figurative, detailed elements and the unpredictable energy of loose lines and graffiti-inspired motifs. My creative influences are diverse and ever-evolving, which keeps my work fresh and exciting. I never fully know how a piece will look until it's finished, and that unpredictability is what makes the process magical for me.

LBB> How did you gravitate towards the particular medium you work in?

Kateryna> It has always been about experimentation. I explored various tools, techniques, and styles before arriving at this particular moment in my work. Even now I continue to actively experiment. I believe this is one of the reasons why illustration and the artistic process will never lose their appeal for me.

LBB> And when you started developing your creative skills and styles, what were your inspirations and influences? 

Kateryna> One of my earliest memories is of the old fashion magazines from the 1980s and 1990s that my mother's close friend, a professional seamstress, gave me to look through. She had a vast collection of these magazines, which her clients often used for inspiration when requesting custom designs. I was particularly struck by the illustrated fashion campaigns, as well as the magazine's layout and design. I believe this experience played a significant role in sparking my deep interest in fashion and design.

Later, during my time at art school in my teenage years, fashion illustration was not offered as a subject. The curriculum primarily focused on academic drawing, landscape studies, and monochromatic figure illustration techniques. 

Despite this, my curiosity remained strong, I began exploring the works of various illustrators like George Stavrinos or Mel Odom and experimenting with different techniques and styles. This allowed me to embrace limitless opportunities for self-expression and experimentation, unbound by the constraints of traditional academic norms.

LBB> How has your style evolved over time - and can you talk to us about some of the stylistic experiments or avenues you've explored over the years?

Kateryna> I believe my style is constantly evolving, with a growing emphasis on refined details. When I break my sketches into individual components, I can easily identify the origin and significance of each element. Every detail represents something I love or reveals something about me.

During my artistic journey, I have explored a variety of styles, including hyper-realism, abstraction, primitivism and traditional painting. It has been a long and rewarding process of growth and learning, culminating in my current approach, where I frequently combine diverse techniques and mediums rather than adhering to a single method. Despite this experimentation, I consistently return to the foundations of fashion illustration and rely on simple, classic tools like pencils as the cornerstone of my creative process.

For me, style evolution is an ongoing process that requires constant experimentation and hard work. I think this journey is always rooted in love, passion and dedication, and it is a long continuous path of growth that I am still discovering.

LBB> And was there any one particular moment or project that really crystallised your understanding of what your style is or should be? If so, can you tell us about it? What sort of ideas shape your style today?

Kateryna> I enjoy developing project-based work and creating a series of illustrations centred around a specific theme. I find it valuable to unify the works around a key concept of technique, whether it's exploring botany, texture, or another focus. This approach allows the piece to form a cohesive narrative. As I work through a series, my technique becomes increasingly refined, evolving throughout the process.

LBB> From NFTs to the metaverse, there are more spaces for your work to show up - what are your thoughts on the impact, challenges, and opportunities brought up by these new spaces? And do they influence how you think about your style?

Kateryna> I believe the rise of NFTs and the metaverse offers exciting opportunities for artists to connect with global audiences, experiment with immersive and interactive formats, and explore new ways to monetise their work. At the same time, these spaces come with challenges, like the need to navigate technical complexities, stand out in an oversaturated market, and stay authentic while adapting to new trends. 

For me, these digital frontiers feel like a double-edged sword - demanding a balance between innovation and integrity - but I find their potential to transform 'how' we create and share art interesting.

LBB> Working in the commercial sphere, is it more important for an artist to have a distinct brand or style? What's the balance between between having a distinctive voice and being able to accommodate the visual language of the brand/campaign?

Kateryna> I believe it is essential to have both a distinct style and a strong brand, as the style can become an integral part of the brand itself. A distinct style not only sets apart but also makes the work instantly recognisable. At the same time, the ability to adapt to the visual language of a brand or campaign is equally important for me.

In my opinion, finding a balance between staying true to your unique voice and aligning with the brand's identity is really important. I think the key is to interpret the brand's vision while still infusing your own style, so the work connects with the target audience while remaining authentic to the artist's identity. 

LBB> Typically, on a commercial project, how do you like to tackle a brief?

Kateryna> As an illustrator, it is essential for me to fully understand the brief and the overarching goal of any commercial project. Equally important is building a strong relationship with the client, as we are both striving toward the same objective: creating outstanding work through seamless collaboration. During the process, I make a point to ask as many questions as necessary until I am 100% confident that I have understood the brief and am ready to begin working. 

The brief serves as a cornerstone, outlining the requirements, goals, and expectations for the project. This clarity is vital to ensure that my creative approach aligns perfectly with the client's vision and objectives.