Part One:
Few non-medicated civilians can fully comprehend the seething pond of bubbling perversion that is Nice Airport's international arrival lobby.
Viewed through a demi-carafe, rose wine tint, it's possible for the festival virgin to tragically underestimate the awaiting carousel's swerving, latent violence for an innocent, if slightly gauche suburban air strip.
But the alpha attack dogs of the advertising zoo know better. Banking hard onto the cote d'azure and the last stop pre-med for the Gucci elite, this is no simple touch down to AUS$200 steak frites and a trump-orange tan. This is as hard core as it can possibly get. A jagged burn that chars ego and devours self-confidence. People, many of them innocent, will be eaten, soul and all, over the next ten days. And they will be the lucky ones.
For the rest of the hapless ghouls meandering around me in search of crucially vital luggage that is already heading to Uganda, via an Air Egypt A300 out of Charles De Gaulle, the following week bent double worshipping the Lion God will render them terminally mute and deaf; their minds literally cooked dry by the combined drone of 12,000 screaming, squeaking death-ravens bent on self-abuse at the very highest levels of VR pornography.
It doesn't get any better or the stakes any higher for your aspiring adman/data curler. Careers will be escalated and diffused with equal aggression. Only the most base, animal primate flavor of marketer will survive the onslaught of experiential overload that awaits all those sporting a laminated festival pass. The seminars alone will reduce thousands to dribbling lemmings: barbarically savaged by the crude genius and psychopathic lust of the 24/7, realtime, 360, media agnostic, tech-forward, bombastic onslaught. By dawn, the hapless carcasses of the fallen will pile up on FaceBook's private beach like sodden kelp on the jersey shore.
But this terror has no ceiling for those ill equipped to handle the harpie whistle of the mob. La Croisette de Cannes: A 2km strip of innocuous pebble wasteland, peppered with posh hotels masquerading as Monte Carlo casinos, bad coffee shops and, for ten, humid days in June, a searingly relentless display of hyper gore and corporate paranoia, as the advertising world's most brutally Machiavellian tsars drag us all into a more connected brand future. Think Mogadishu with a better speaker system.
Only those with a weapons-grade tolerance for high-acidity bile and a voracious appetite for sunshine and cheese cloth will ultimately reign supreme by the ordeal's blood-soaked seven day finale.
And now, even I, a battered veteran of this putrid crash and carry out, will be tested to the maximum of my remaining muscle groups. If I have any prayer of surviving the bug-eyed storm troopers masquerading as user-friendly, multilingual immigration officials standing post before me, it is essential I re-marshall my nerves and start aping the over-achieving marketing Jedi that the bloated CV on the Lions Festival website currently claims me to be.
Three months ago, back in Sydney, my Samoan attorney, Jay Furby, had made it abundantly clear:
"They want you. Can you believe it? You! They think you're still in the business! Hysterical, yes, but I skillfully persuaded them you've stopped drinking and are taking all the properly prescribed and necessary medications. They bought it. And now, the predictable arrangements have been made. A conveniently located 3 star hotel room has been reserved in your name. Festival passes are being printed as we speak. A medium-sized sedan will pick you up at Nice airport. I have already accepted, on your behalf. And included my usual administrative percentage fee. It's legally binding you fool. Either Cannes or a cell in the Cross awaits you."
And so, now, here I am.
Staring down the barrel of a black-suited failed male model, as he holds up a card with my name, almost spelled correctly, and the bitter, greenish glint of an arch assassin who pines for the richer pickings and superior bone structure of the bona fide Film Festival judges: They, who truly lend this town its air of superficial bling, but who shot out of here in fat cat company jets back to LALA months ago.
"Fuck you, ad scum pretender" his eyes shout, as his mouth mumbles "bonjour Monsieur Nobbly" with all the enthusiasm of a back-bent, meth freak on the low slopes of a three day binge.
This blood thirsty lunatic has me down pat. He's seen the genuine article. He's smelt the real deal. And he recognizes my imposter stammer and clammy fist. In seconds, he will strangle the jet-lagged life from me. I know that look. The itchy, twitchy trigger finger. The polished loafers. The white-knuckle hatred of all that data-driven creativity holds dear. Between festivals, this Rottweiler no-doubt protects Marine LePen and her Nazi kin, as they plot the demise of the brown intruder, over blue-rare steak and chilled Sancerre, from her palatial, Provence pool-side retreat.
This twisted bastard will have me hog-tied in the back of his Mercedes E-class wagon in a petit-moment. Only laser-clear focus and rat cunning can save me now. If I have any hope at all, I must up my Cannes-Game substantially. By three notches; perhaps even more. I will need accessories at the double. Top drawer labels. Shi-Shi and foo-foo. Nothing less. No "vin-ordinaire". No expense spared. Whatever the outrageous cost or criminally baked conversion rates this side of the world threatens. I have to shop hard, like my life depends on it. Or be devoured by this perfectly tailored man-lizard.
I will need suade. By the meter. And calf skin shoulder bags. White pants; a dozen, minimum, tapered like razor blades. And tangerine cashmere. As much as I can feasibly carry. Feather-lite linen suits. Deconstructed. Ideally, pink.
But the Publicis Comms overseas protocols are painfully clear on this subject: transcribed to me in person only days ago in Sydney, with ferociously forensic detail by their Regional CFO? "There can be no infringements". He was adamant. "Zero tolerance" for unbillable extravagance. "No wriggle room" he stressed. Not after the "London Incident". Shit damn! I am in a pickle, and given my driver's leaden right foot, it will only be a matter of minutes before we arrive at my prescribed hostel for the next ten days; The Grey Albion", a name that reeks of moderation, low intensity wifi and a minimal use of marble.
I will be undone, before I have even started. This is my bat-shit twisted attorney's fault. He knew full well he was sending me into the bowels of the beast with pitifully underpowered munitions. I am doomed. That beer soaked maniac has pulled this trick before, when he accompanied me to Dubai in '08 to co-chair their extravagant, diamond encrusted Lynx Award Festival. Then, only a wandering CNN news crew and the last minute intervention of the Deputy PM, Julia Bishop, saved us both from a thousand lashes, at a minimum. Now, here I am again. But where is he? Spending the last of my commission in Kings Cross, no doubt.
I reach for my company iPhone. At this rate, my Publicis international roaming package can only feasibly stretch another day, but to hell with it. No fucking emoji can do this nightmare justice. This more than spells full blown, global emergency, and Jay Furby, for all his demonic excesses, is the only man intellectually and morally ill-equipped to lift me out of this ensuing mire. He is a savage lion amongst fetid rabbits.
"Jay, I can only speak for a moment", I spit out as the process blue coastline of the French Riviera looms into view ahead of us.
"Go ahead Nobay, you have my full attention. But, I warn you, I am recording this conversation. Just in case".
"Never mind that, Jay. I require a new wardrobe. ASAP. These Frenchies are onto me, I can feel it!"
"Relax, I've thought of everything. Your time has been secured for the Lions Outdoor Jury, correct?"
"Of course! You secured it, you maniac?"
"Well, given the prevailing heat down there in June, and considering that, unlike the other 1,742 Lions juries, yours alone has the added pressure of being judged entirely outdoors, with no reliable air conditioning and zero practical shade supplied..."
"Yes? Yes?" I splurt out as the modest entrance of my reasonably priced hotel approaches...
"Well, as your formally retained attorney, I believe you have sound legal recourse to fully expense especially tailored outdoor clothing, specifically for said event."
"Seriously?" This zombie is my attorney for good reason. No-one else in his price bracket spots the angles like Jay.
"Buy with absolute impunity! From a human-recourses perspective, I think we're on very strong ground here", Jay adds, with a confident swagger that underlines the righteous swing of his club.
Before my Samoan attorney can elaborate further, I am already out of the Mercedes and rushing at pace towards the string of gilt-edged fashion boutiques that glitter like a string of diamonds along the steaming hot, dog-shit-smeared, bitumen that marks La Croisette...
Part Two:
Your standard issue, provincial French desk concierge falls easy prey to bitter prejudice, rained down by bloated, semi-illiterate, invariably mid-western, fanny-pack freaks; juiced to the max on day-glo, sugar-rich sodas and wrongfully boasting English as their primary language.
But the Cannes-based concierge is an altogether different beast and must only be engaged with extreme caution and, ideally, heavily armed. And here, mark my words, no such liberal or PC sympathies should apply. For this utterly feral, outlying genetic strand of the domesticated species is nothing short of a sadistic, stone cold mercenary; honed in the dark arts of pagan sacrifice and total "nose to tail" cannibalism: more than ready to disembowel naive, low level, bottom-rung, lobby plankton with casual ease and utter abandon.
The pristinely dressed goon presently eying me over his rose gold YSL lightweight frames is a case in point: Michel, (according to his lapel badge, but doubtless not his real name), analyzes my newly acquired wardrobe from the ground up, with the practiced lens of a Harvard neuro-surgeon.
Part Three:
No-one bothers to warn you about your nipples when you sign on as a judge for the Cannes Lions Outdoor Jury. That said, according to Jay Furby, my Sydney-based Samoan attorney, there has been more than enough warnings pinging over the equator with my name attached over the last 24 hours, ever since I touched down in this pagan repository for over-priced gut bacteria and high-stakes trophies.
Part Four:
This entire gender-diversity fad is in perilous danger of swerving clean off the road, and taking all us testosterone-laden lemmings with it, straight over the edge to a dark, deep oblivion.
Over here on La Croisette, Lord Savage, with all the renegade zest of a teenage student activist, has had his vice-tight grip on the wheel and foot down hard on the pedal for months now; pronouncing a total shattering of the glass ceiling and surrendering extraordinary, so far unheard-of levels of percentage equality to the other side (some recent figures right up there in the high forties!). This screams truly precarious and terrifying trials ahead for the majority of us card-carrying admen who specifically got into this arch caper thirty years ago based on the express guarantee that THERE IS NO GENDER EQUALITY IN ADVERTISING??
Goddamnit, if it isn't bad enough over half my clients are sassy, confident, independent-thinking women, now I have to fight off a fast-amassing battalion of creative storm troopers in cargo pants and comfortable heels, just to keep my frequent flyer status in top notch condition and my humidor bulging with Cuban gold? At this rate, I'll be an Uber driver by Christmas.
Of course, ladies who can simultaneously walk, write, art-direct, chew gum and mercilessly ass-whip me in a global pitch are hardly a new phenomenon.
The first wave of attack-ready "Adman-Terminators" sent back from our femo-future came in the battle-ready form of the early T1 model ECDs...Hoffman, Credle, De Maupeou, Royer, Keenan, DeCourcy, Stanners and their whole super-focused and scarily articulate recon-patrol of powder-coated ninja assassins. From our protected slouch, few of us saw them coming and were frankly too smugly drunk on the cushy sag of our boardroom couches to cotton on to the stark reality we were about to get dramatically body-slammed and beaten down within a humiliating inch of our fairy tale, cock-sure lives.
Then, no sooner had we negotiated a pathetic but diplomatic detente to save witnessing our entire, sweet deal of a citadel sacked and burned around our ears, than the next model of She-minator was suddenly amongst us: this version more talented, lithe and cunning still; capable of morphing into a myriad of executive positions right across the C-Suite of our once wonderfully cushy creative industry.
Utter defeat was patently unavoidable: stared down and crushed by this fully loaded, merciless shape-shifter; bent on utter domination of any conceivable strategic brief and demonstrably wiser, brighter and more aesthetically palatable than we toothless, hairy mutts could hope to compete with.
The end is nigh. The iceberg is well upon the bow and the best we can pray for is a magnanimous and merciful conquest.
But losing the battle for inequality is far from front of mind, as I study the dark, panda shadows encasing my blood-shot eyes now glaring furiously back at me from the Louis the something gilt-edged mirror that centers the enormous salmon marble en-suite bathroom of the impressive Donnie Deutsche Rooftop Suite that has been my cell here at the reasonably priced Gray Albion Hotel for the last seven days.
That said, according to the debrief I received under a hot lamp just a few hours ago in Interview Room 2 of Nice's Central Police HQ, perhaps I shouldn't be quite so loose with the word "cell".
From what I could grasp from the Inspector's garbled impersonation of Peter Sellers alter ego, it's a miracle I'm not currently being brutally sodomized by my inherited bunkmate at Hotel Du Cop.
It seems offering up a Grand Prix on the open market is frowned upon by the top-tier execs who run the Euro-printing machine that is the Lions Festival of Creativity.
Lord Savage was more than ready to throw the book hard in my specific direction, but mercifully I received a last minute reprieve from his head capo, the ever urbane Festival CEO, Phil Thomas.
In truth, his intervention was not altogether altruistic, nor entirely unexpected: the full, no-questions pardon from the Palais's back office came through hot and fast, just as I predicted it would, moments after Thomas received my downloaded jpeg of said silky CEO and Jeremy "The Kraken" Craigen, knee deep and waist high in the twilight throws of an especially memorable naked slumber party cum DDB Global Creative Summit in room 724 of the Carlton Hotel back in the heady, humid Summer of Cannes '04.
Back then, Craigen was, and presumably still is, an ardent and unapologetic nudist. His perfectly bronzed, hairless 360 degree tan can be clearly recognized in the photo, along with his exquisitely manscaped pubis. In fairness, little if any of Phil's face can be seen, obscured as it is by the black, heavily-studded PVC mask. Indeed, no court in the land could or would conceivably convict based on this simple, blurry image. From a forensic POV, it would be aggressively argued that the crudely pixelated image simply suggests a middle aged, Caucasian man in his M&S underpants, demonstrating to Jeremy the gymnastic extent of his yoga training. Thank sweet Jesus, on this particular occasion, Phil was clearly in no mood to roll the dice and risk his own potential "Weinergate". And so, seconds from impending incarceration, a love of anonymity saves the day and liberty is mine to spoil once more.
Not that I am remotely clear of the Branston Pickle. For one, my Samoan Attorney has been grounded in Doha and is undoubtedly already cutting savagely deep into my ill-gotten loot, physically isolated deep within its next-gen First Class terminal. In my experience, you can blow through a staggering amount of moolah within the perfumed bunker of your standard Arabic long-haul airport. Dubai, for instance, boasts duty-free Ferraris, along with all the mandatory extra-large Toblerone, soft toys and luxury luggage.
In Jay's defense, even his jangled brain couldn't have predicted that the Trump-inspired regional embargo of the tiny but cash-fat desert kingdom would result in his Qatar premium-economy flight from Sydney being forced to fly in ever-decreasing circles around its capital, strenuously banned by its three immediate neighbors from entering their hallowed air space, until the 747 finally ran out of juice and gently nose dived into a conveniently spongy sand dune just yards off the runway.
My best hope right now is that my loyal, if terminally racist Concierge Michel is successful in negotiating some much needed cash back from the area's neighboring boutiques for the mountain of bags of pastel-inspired luxury togs that have survived the last 72 hours on this wretched stretch of beach relatively unsoiled.
Michel is promising 30 cents on the dollar, but after his cut, I'll be lucky if I can afford a round at the Carlton bar.